Wednesday, May 24, 2006

rant/musings/perspective check p.s. don't read this if you're eating.

My head is currently a bottomless repository of the most fascinating mucus on earth. It's beyond snot. It's more like glue. Clear, thick yet still fluid, elastic, stretchy glue, like the kind in a tube I used in middle school when I was too cool for Elmer's. Despite the goo, I can still breathe through my nose. Sweet!

I have a sinus infection, according to the lovely and very sweet doctor at the international clinic. Am currently on a dose of 4 pills three times a day - an antibiotic, a cough suppressant, sudafed to decongest the depths of my apparently vast sinuses, and something for phlegm. Dunno what it does with the phlegm. Maybe that's what's making everything so strange and taffy-like. ~o~ They make me feel alternately light-headed & buzzy (in a fun & high way) or tired (in a less fun but still high way). I'd rather have a z-pack and just take one pill at a time, but these are much easier on the stomach. And much cheaper. All of my pills came to a whopping total of krw8,600, or about US$8. The visit itself was US$15. The Canadians at work think this is incredibly expensive. ~grin~ I say, wh00t!

The international clinic was fun. The nurses were awesome. My boss called ahead and made me an appointment (thanks, Cindy!). The clinic is located inside the largest hospital in Korea, the Ansan Medical Center. It's enormous. ENORMOUS. I was glad the clinic was on the first floor. ~lol~

Three nurses and two doctors work at the international clinic. One of the nurses told me that the hospital is the largest in Korea, that people from all over the country seek referrals there for major surgeries, especially liver and heart transplants. Everyone there was so much nicer than many of the doctors at home. They actually listened and made me feel like a decent human being. (Though, no one can beat Dr. Pearson at the Stillwater clinic. He rules.)

It's 3 am and I can't sleep. I went for a walk around 2 to clear my head. It's a damp, misty night. The streets are bathed in hazy orange streetlamp light. Aside from Rodeo Drive outside my apartment, most businesses are closed. A few neon signs flickered tiredly on the street where I walked. The one and a half blocks of red light district nearby didn't even seem open when I passed.

It's fun to see who's still awake at this time of night. Koreans know how to drink, and even though bar time is usually 2 am, many places seem to stay open later. 2 am on a Tuesday night, and the dance club down the street is still packed full. Legions of cabs patrol the streets, slowing down to pause near anyone staggering out of bars, norebangs, shikdahngs (restaurants), pool halls, clubs. Cab drivers are kings once the subway closes for the night. If you're not going somewhere they want to go, they'll wave you away like a dirty shoe and wait for the next tipsy lot to wander by. They won't have to wait long.

I am restless. According to a co-worker, I've hit The 3-6 Month Slump. They said that after vacation at the end of August, I will feel better. ~grin~ That's a ways away. I'm searching for solutions. I am still happy here, but I am feeling increasingly homesick and too comfortable with my current routine. Time to shake things up. More travel. More gym. More new friends. Something. I've avoided meeting adoptees since I arrived, which is rather sad. I don't know why. Three theories.

1. I feel guilty when I meet adoptees - many seem to be here because they have issues with adoption and had a bad experience. I had a fine experience and led a pretty damn sheltered life sans racism. I don't really want to find my birth parents, though that may be because I'm certain I couldn't find them. I've got some peace with this. Many don't.

2. Maybe I do have issues with adoption and am avoiding other adoptees because I don't want to deal.

3. My boyfriend is white and I'm afraid of judgement from a group of people who are here to hang out with asians and get in touch with their asian selves.
I had a chance to be a part of a spoken word/performance art piece about adoption. I dropped out because of schedule issues. uberboo. Got an invite to the show, with the following:
"This show has been created with ethnic _Koreans_ in mind (overseas or native), so if you would kindly keep that in mind as you pass on the word-- ie: inviting your korean friends to come, and not your hagwon co-workers.... that would be truly amazing."

I understand and I don't. Granted, I'm suspicious of lots of the white people here. It seems like many of them are just here to make money, not to enjoy a new culture. Some are here to sleep with Asian women. Some are here to party, live easy, be treated like royalty, and avoid responsiblity and adulthood. Sound like judgements? Yes. Yet I've also met all three of these types while I've been here. (bleargh.) I've talked with adoptees who said they're not here to hang out with white people, they can do that at home. I don't know if I'm asian or white or purple or puce. I don't feel asian and I don't feel white. Maybe I'm afraid I'm not "asian enough," whatever that means. That's been an ongoing fear. Working with Mu helped me start facing a lot of that. Perhaps it's time to jump back into the fray. ~lol~

I suppose it's a combination of all three, with emphasis on one and three. Like most things. Nothing is black and white.

And yet, some things are clear. Tonight while wandering and brooding over the reasons I came to Korea in the first place, I saw a hagwon bus carting English students home at 2 am. They're probably high school students. They'll have to go home and finish homework from Korean school and probably at least 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 hagwons. They might get 3 or 4 hours of sleep, and then it's back to high school by 9 am. Their teachers can hit them, their parents can beat them, they are under enormous pressure to have perfect scores, enter the perfect university, and lead perfect, successful, wealthy lives.

My life ain't so bad.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

whine.

bugger it all. i am sick again. i think i have bronchitis. curse pollution and new germs in a foreign country.

something is wrong with my Skype number. if you've tried to call me, i guess it's going straight to my voice mail, but it doesn't let you leave a message, and i don't hear a ring. am working to get that fixed. :(

i signed up this weekend to take a 2-day trip to North Korea in July. i'll be hiking at Geumgangsam Diamond Mountain. woo hoo!

Monday, May 08, 2006

of question marks and boxer briefs

Oh, Korea. I have been homesick again the last week, was rotten sick this weekend, and have been feeling generally run down. I think I might drop out of Korean class. :(

Today, though, I felt better and decided to go to a foreign food market in Itaewon where I heard I could score some Thai curry paste. (and score I did - picked up red curry paste, tamarind, fish sauce, black bean sauce, sriracha, sweet chili sauce, lentils, dried basil, dried thyme, fresh cilantro ~ JOY!!! ~ and fresh long beans) The Foreign Food Market (the place is actually called Foreign Food Market ~lol~) can't hold a candle to Shuang Hur, but it's awfully nice. Dude, my pantry is close to being like it is at home. Happy. This week I'm making curry and pad thai.

Anyhoo, blab blab blab, was reminded again today how much I love being in Korea. On the way home from Itaewon, I got on an escalator about 5 steps behind two women. One was wearing a white three-quarter-length-sleeve t-shirt with yellow yarn embroidery around the collar..... and around a 4-inch question mark made of black felt hovering off-center above her butt. I couldn't stop staring. What?!?!?! The felt killed me, it was so thick. Thick, black, 4-inch, butt-hovering question mark. I stared so hard, she must have sensed something because she turned around and stared at me for a bit. whoops. Oh, Korean fashion. Some of it I love, some of it makes me feel like a huge slob, and some of it makes me wonder if I had LSD for breakfast.

This evening, I went out for a short walk. As I was leaving, I passed by an open door on my floor. People often prop their apartment doors open when they're home here, probably to get a little air moving in their apartments. I usually glance in when I walk by. Am curious to see how people decorate & how they use their space. Usually the places I've seen have lots of decorations, furniture, pictures, all sorts of your typical home furnishings. I've seen people cleaning, giving piano lessons, reading, working in a home office, eating dinner. Today I glanced in and saw a relatively bare apartment, no photos, no pictures, white furniture lined up along a wall. The tv was blaring, and a guy was laying in bed. In his underwear. ~*^O^*~ Pretty boring underwear though, grey boxer briefs. ~lol~ The guy had his door propped open as wide as it goes, it wasn't just cracked open a bit. Oh, I held my breath 'til I got to the elevator, and then I giggled all the way down to 1. So funny.


More photos from Gyeongju.

Seokguram Grotto. You can't take photos of the actual Buddhas carved inside the grotto, but some photos are at this website.

entrance:


view of the vally:




walking up to the grotto:


there was a fairly steep drop off along the side of the path, so the way had several of these cheerful banners:


comfy:


the grotto is inside this building. you can walk in and observe the carvings through a glass wall. when we were there, mass was being held by a monk with about 15-20 people praying. they were bowing - kneeling and standing without using their hands to stand - over and over and over and over while the monk chanted and tapped some kind of small drum or wood block.




prayers from all over the world:


all over, and these are just a few of the hundreds and hundreds of prayers piled around the courtyard:


velcroing shoes in the parking lot, waiting to go home:

Tuesday, May 02, 2006

trees! green! mountains! fresh air!

dude. i love gyeongju (formally spelled kyungju). had such a lovely weekend.

Many areas of Gyeongju are designated as UNESCO world heritage sites. Geyongju was the capital of Korea during the Silla dynasty, the first Korean dynasty (688-935). I think it's pronounced "shilla".

Anyhoo, UNESCO has an okay photo tour of Gyeongju's many world heritage sites here. We went to see Bulguksa Temple and the Seokguram Grotto, in addition to walking through Tumuli Park, the Hwangryonsa Temple Site, Anapchi Pond, and at least three other parks. I can't remember all of the names. We arrived Saturday evening, went to an outdoor performance and walked through an old palace area and a park with tombs of Silla royalty. Sunday we woke up at 5:45 to make it to Bulguksa before the massive crowds appeared. It's peak traveling season in Korea from now through August or September. In the spring and fall, many schools take their kids on trips throughout the country. Gyeongju is a popular spot.

rest stop on the 4.5 hour bus trip to gyeongju:


the outdoor performance:



bulguksa temple grounds:

















more photos soon! ^o^